Feeding and supplements for reptiles: insects, greens, calcium, and vitamins

Quick answer

Most reptile nutrition problems come from three things: the wrong diet, poor feeder quality, or inconsistent supplementation. Start with a species-specific plan and keep a simple log. Small improvements in preventing deficiencies go a long way.

Know your diet type first

• Insectivores: many geckos and some lizards
• Herbivores: some tortoises and iguanas
• Omnivores: species like bearded dragons (varies by age)
• Carnivores: many snakes

Do not feed based on "what looks right." Confirm the species diet.

Gut-loading: the hidden upgrade

If you feed insects, gut-load them 24 to 48 hours before feeding.

• Offer quality greens and appropriate feeder diets
• Keep feeders hydrated

A healthy insect is better nutrition than a starving one.

Dusting and supplements

Supplement needs vary, but common principles:

• Calcium is often used for many lizards.
• Some plans include vitamin D3 depending on UVB exposure.
• Multivitamins are usually periodic, not daily.

Over-supplementation can also cause problems. Use a schedule, not guesswork.

Portion size and frequency

• Juveniles often eat more frequently.
• Adults often do better with fewer meals.

Use body condition and species guidance, not begging behavior.

Common feeding mistakes

• feeding only one insect type for months
• offering prey that is too large
• leaving live insects in the enclosure too long
• skipping hydration and expecting food alone to solve it

FAQ

Can I feed only mealworms?

It is usually not ideal as a sole feeder for many species. Aim for variety.

Do I need supplements if I have UVB?

Often yes, but the type and frequency depend on diet and species. Confirm a reputable plan.

Should I free-feed leafy greens?

For some herbivores, yes. For others, it depends on age and diet balance.

Next step

Want a feeding plan tailored to the reptile type you are considering?